Monday, July 6, 2009

Sunday, April 12, 2009

On this Easter Sunday: "Good Lord"

I'd like to take a minute to say that my wife's a fox. How much luckier can a guy get?




We all went shopping today and picked up a lot of new clothes. We we are modeling our new shirts. (above and below)





Just the girls. "Good Lord"!!


Just the boys.

Sunday, April 5, 2009

Scenes from the fateful deer fight in Nara

Watch daddy go in for the kill at the end.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Holiday to Kyoto, Shigaraki, Nara, and Horyuji

We just returned from a family holiday to some of the most historic sites in Japan, several of which are UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites. It was a lot of fun but with the kids in tow, it was also a lot of work. It will probably be our last family holiday for some time, except for the cruise. [More photos here.]

We began our trip in Kyoto on Sunday. We stayed in a hotel room that overlooked the temple of Honnoji, the same temple where the warlord Oda Nobunaga was killed in 1582. Across the street, in front of the city hall, were men, not all of them young, decked out in 1950s American "Rebel-without-a-cause" gear. Hair slicked back, leather collars turned up, they were looking very serious, assembled in a circle, dancing to Japanese translated Rockabilly tunes from the same era as their clothing. It was most ridiculous but Miyako really got a kick out of it. A group of girls in poodle dresses invited her to join in but she was too shy.


In front of a store called "Miyako" in Kyoto (which also means "Miyako")


At Nishiki tenmangu shrine




The were just so serious about the whole thing, we had a good laugh




In the Honnoji hotel.


Eating breakfast.

The next morning, we rented a car and headed for the hills. After about an hour's drive through the countryside, we arrived at Shigaraki, a pottery village that produces some of the most valuable and original fired clay works in the country. They also make, en masse, tanukis, or "raccoon dogs," that have the faces of raccoons, the bodies of a fat Buddha statue, and massive, oversized testicles. Kent wanted to do nothing but play with a small frog figurine. We had to buy it for him. Also got Amy a tanuki, because she asked for it.


In Shigaraki



From there, our very cool navigation system sent us toward Nara through even deeper countryside of the most splendid bucolic beauty. The scenery was idyllic, like something out of a Kurosawa film. Farm houses, terraced rice fields, ceder forests, bent elderly, and tea bushes of the most remarkable order, all welcomed us at every hairpin turn. The roads were barely wide enough for two cars.


Tea bushes along the road from Shigaraki to Nara



Finally arriving in Nara, Japan's imperial capital from 710-784, we checked into the Nara Hotel. The Nara Hotel is easily the finest hotel in the city and perhaps one of the most famous in the country. It's remarkable for its architecture, built in a Western-Japanese fusion style typical of the early Meiji period (1868-1912). It was spectacular, right up to the point where we had to deal with any staff. They seemed so into their image and doing things the "right" way, they paid no attention to our needs. I've had much better experiences at hotels one-tenth the price. But it was beautiful, I'll give them that.


Entrance to the Nara Hotel

In Nara, the kids enjoyed petting the ubiquitous deer, but this too ended badly. When Miyako approached one too fast, it butted her with his small horns. I almost kicked the SOB right in the nose. I was freaking out. Good thing (for the deer) she was not hurt.











The next morning, still in Nara, we visited the great temple of Todaiji, famous for being a World Heritage site but special because it is the world's largest wooden building. Most amazing is that it's only 2/3rd it's previous size, as built in the 14th century. The Buddhist icon inside is, I think, the largest bronze in the world. The kids were unimpressed but Miyako enjoyed passing through a hole in one of the pillars, said to be the same diameter as the main icon's nostril.











From Nara, we drove south to the temple of Horyuji. It's off the beaten track and not a tourist destination but Horyuji is very special. It's the oldest extant Buddhist temple in Japan AND, incidentally, it's main hall, the Kondo, is the oldest wooden building in the world!


There she is. The Horyuji kondo was built in the 7th century.





The place was magical. I've been to a lot of temples in my day but this one was different. I'm not sure why but the sensation of being in a complex built in the 7th century by Prince Shotoku, one of Japan's founding fathers, gave me a tingly feeling all over. The kids seems to like being there as well, which added to its magical quality. At one point, they began to play hide and seek amidst the wide pillars that make up the surrounding corridor. I couldn't help but be inspired by how they were enjoying themselves in such a sacred and historical place. The Buddha would have been pleased.







From there, we drove back to Kyoto on time to catch a late bullet train back to Tokyo. All in all, the trip was great but exhausting. We certainly collected a lot of memories. But in an ironic twist to our objective of collecting memories rather than things, we realized that memories can be very, very expensive.


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Saturday, March 21, 2009

Immigrants, Sacrifice, and a Brighter Future for our Kids

For a variety of reasons, I've been thinking quite a bit lately about one of the guiding principles of good parenthood: the hope that our kids have a better life than we do. We all share this hope, don't we? It's only natural. But do we all feel it equally? More precisely, do we all make the same effort?

I don't think so.

Lately, I've had occasion to be around a few working-class foreigners here in Japan. Immigrating from the Philippines, China and elsewhere, they, like immigrants around the world, endure profound hardships. They don't speak the language; they following a strange religion; they look different; they have no family or close friends nearby, and they are often quite poor. Society looks down on them: they are the suspects of crime, depredation, and immorality. They suffer discrimination and ridicule at every turn.

But they endure these profound hardships because they know their kids will benefit by growing up in a country infinitely safer and more prosperous then their own.

Lately, I've begun looking at working-class immigrant families with a sense of awe. I wonder honestly if I have the same mettle. They endure so much and sacrifice so greatly to ensure their kids have a better future. What do I do? I read to my kids before they go to bed. I try to tell them creative stories and listen when they have something to say. I stash away a few dollars for their education. That's about it and it's nothing compared to the Herculean efforts of so many immigrants here in Japan, the US and around the world.

I wonder how different the world would be if all made the same sacrifices; if we all put the same effort into our kids' futures as do so many working-class immigrants.

What do you think?

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Irreconcilable differences

Marrying someone from another country can be fraught with cultural friction and at no time is this more apparent than when it come to child rearing.

Today I did something with the kids that so profoundly disturbed Kyoko, she scowled at me in a state of utter apoplexy for a very long time. It was something so odd, so strange, she couldn't fathom what was going through my insane mind.

Ready for this? Do you want to know what my terrible sin was? I was feeding them peanut butter that I had spread on a small piece of chocolate!! Holy Toledo! I may as well have been socking them with electrodes attached to their ears. What a terrible father I am!

Then I realized... Japan still does not have one important element of human civilization.


Sunday, January 4, 2009

With love to our neighbours.



And the Kiwi response: